Day 10: Hiking, Pottery & Farewell

On our final day in Turkey the weather was gorgeous. In the morning we visited a small village, uninhabited since the 1970s that pretty much resembled a large rock garden. All the homes were carved out of the rock, just like the underground city we saw. I found it so interesting that people a few hundred years ago saw these tall rocks and thought to themselves, "What a good place to build a home." They have their advantages such as durability, and vantage point, but it's certainly no easy feat to carve a home out of solid rock, especially with primitive tools. 

We got to go inside one of them and we met with a man who grew up living there. The government kicked out all of the families still living in the village in the 1970s, claiming that the homes were a heritage site and they needed to be protected. So since then, this man has been paid by the government to maintain the condition of his family home and show it to tourists. He told us about life there and how his whole family lived together in one house. He said that as the family grew, new rooms would be carved and so the home would grew with them. His home was in great condition; with some running water and a bit of electricity I could have lived there myself. 

Then we took a beautiful hike through a stunning valley. The scenery was amazing; it was like being on a different planet. We could even see a volcano on the horizon; which made it into the background of the picture below.  

Following our escapade, we made a visit to Turkey's most famous potter, Mister Galip! He is pretty much a Turkish version of Einstein. He has wild white hair and is amazingly gifted. Before our eyes he turned a lump of wet clay into a pot that was so perfect it looked like it had been made by a machine. He makes everything from pots, to dish wear, to wine carafes and tiles, all of which are hand-painted with unbelievable precision and detail. I would have posted pictures but I don't want to spoil anybody's Christmas gift. All I will say is that I am possibly more excited about giving the gifts than my family will be when they receive them; everything he makes is so cool! 

We ended the day by watching the sun set over the Pigeon Valley and I couldn't have asked for a better conclusion to the trip. As has been my experience with academic travel in the past, my every expectation was exceeded and I really can't imagine it having gone a better way. I learned so much, saw so much, and made such great friends; that's why academic travel is such a valuable experience. It opens our minds, opens our eyes, and opens our hearts. 

Day 9: Hot Air Balloons, Magic Carpets & Whirling Dervishes

We started the morning early, 6 am wake up for a sunrise hot air balloon ride. I have always wanted to go on a hot air balloon and I couldn't have imagined a more perfect place to do it. I highly recommend it to anyone planning to visit Cappadocia. As we floated into the air, the sun rose over the valley, casting long shadows behind the tall pointed rocks. Like so many other things in Turkey, it was spectacular.

Floating in the basket was such a different feeling from flying. You can't really notice the speed, so it's not as frightening as one might expect. And the chance to look down on the beautiful landscape in the morning light and see the other balloons floating around us was really magical. I felt as if I had been transported into a Dr. Seuss book.

Afterwards, we went to see the Turkish carpets and how they are made. WOW! It takes thousands of rows to make each carpet and thousands of knots to make each row. I knew they were labor intensive to make but I had never been able to conceptualize it before. Every carpet was so luxurious; each one was a unique piece of art. It is easy to see why they cost thousands of dollars. I loved that we got to see the whole process from the silk spinning, to the dying, to the weaving; it added a lot of value to the experience. It was so amazing when they laid out all the rugs before us and showed us how the ones made using natural dyes changed color in different light. Our host was such a good sales man, he made me want to work really hard just so that one day I can afford to fill me house with Turkish carpets. 

In the evening we saw the Whirling Dervishes. It was very interesting and beautiful, however, I felt uncomfortable as a spectator while they performed their religious ceremony. It felt like something that should have been private. During the real ceremony we weren't allowed to take any pictures, but afterwards they did a shorter version of the ceremony specifically for pictures and videos. Honestly, I would have been satisfied with just seeing the second part. Nevertheless, it was truly amazing how they spun in the same spot without getting dizzy for nearly 15 minutes and then were able to stop on a dime. I can easily understand why spinning is holy for them; I think it is a really beautiful idea to spin in synchronization with the world and all its parts.  

Day 8: The Mausoleum of Atatürk & an Underground City

Day 8 took us to Antikbir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. This massive structure is the resting place of the Turks' beloved first president, well known for his war victories and many political, educational, and social reforms. The sheer size of this monument is a testament to the fact that part of being Turkish means holding his name in the highest regard. When visiting Turkey, all political leaders from other countries are required to first make a stop here in order to pay him their respects. This site is not solemn, however, it's more like a museum commemorating the life of Atatürk and his accomplishments, than the location of his tomb. Walking through the large rooms that frame the square pictured below, you get to see such items as his personal shaving kit and hand written letters, which make the whole visit actually quite intimate. 

After our visit at the memorial, we began our bus ride to Cappadocia. Along the way, we stopped to explore the underground city of Kaymakli. I was completely shocked and amazed by how truly large it was. The rooms themselves were small, but there were literally hundreds of them connected by twisting tunnels. I had expected that there would maybe be something like twenty rooms… was I sure mistaken. Moreover, these weren't just random rooms carved out wherever they felt like it; the whole arrangement was unbelievably sophisticated. There was a church, there were cooking areas, sleeping areas, gathering rooms, places to store food and wine, even a ventilation system. There were also rolling stone doors that could be used as extra protection against invaders. It was like being inside an anthill. The place was such an expansive maze it would have been extremely easy to get lost down there. (In fact, I almost did get lost and nearly had a panic attack.) I loved it though because I never even knew places like this existed; it was like something from a fairytale. 

It still boggles my mind that nearly 500 people could survive down there for months at a time if necessary.

Day 7: Dinner in Ankara

We only spent one night in Ankara because our guide, Burcu, has some strong opinions about the government capital… but one night was enough to eat the more food than I had during the entire past week in Turkey, and that's saying something because we ate A LOT, every day. 

We stayed in a nice hotel and went to the sauna and afterwards, we were treated to a feast. Thirty of us in total made for quite the dinner party. First had cold appetizers, then warm appetizers, then salad, then lahmanchu (Turkish pizza), then the main dish, and then, finally we ate dessert. And let's not forget the glass of wine, which could not be emptied no matter how much I drank. I made it through the appetizers and the salad, but after that I could barely manage a few bites from the remaining courses. I would have saved more room but that salad was sooooo delicious, and each plate had enough food to be a meal in its own right. I'm not talking about a side salad; I'm talking about a large dinner bowl full of salad. I honestly don't know how the Turks do it. I loved all the food we ate on travel from meet balls and sea bass, to lentil soup and those delightful fried cheeses things (I wish I knew what they were called).  Also, I could eat that yogurt sauce with dill all day! The Turks definitely know how to make good food and on our trip there was never a shortage, something I was very appreciative of. 

The part I enjoyed most about the night, however, was when we all took turns sharing something about Turkey that had surprised us or was different from our expectations. It's always interesting to see how each of us takes something different from our experiences on academic travel, and often, as students, we don't get to hear explicitly these views from our contemporaries. 

First plate. Cold appetizers. 

One last thing…Burcu's friend read my fortune in the grounds of my tea, which is something I have always wanted done and was very exciting for me! 

I have to say, I came away from the whole experience of the night with some very positive insights. 

Day 6: Dolmabahçe Palace

Dolmabahçe Palace was built for the Ottoman sultans in 1843. At the time it cost them five million gold coins, which is the equivalent of about 1.5 billion dollars today. Until the Dolmabahçe Palace was built, the sultan had lived in Topkapi Palace which we visited on our first day in Istanbul. Sultan Abdülmecid, however, didn't that that it was luxurious or stylish enough anymore and so he commissioned the construction of a new palace on the Bosporus.

Dolmabahçe Palace is truly splendid; it is unfortunate that we weren't allowed to take pictures inside. I had to sneak this one looking out of a stained glass window facing the Bosporus. It is possible to make out a vessel in the water and to see the port where Atatürk would have been dropped off when arriving home by boat. Atatürk used the palace as a summer home and is said to have done some of his most important work there while he was in power. The palace also claims to house the world's largest chandelier. However, the Palace of Parliament in Bucharest, Romania also claims to have the world's largest chandelier… Needless to say, they were equally impressive. Yet, I have to say that the decor inside Dolmabahçe Palace is much more extravagant; it has the largest rugs, the most gold leaf, and the most silk upholstery I have ever seen. 

Day 5: Archaeology

On the fifth day of our trip we toured the underground cistern and several museums, including the Archaeological Museum. I knew that Turkey had a long history and people had been living on Turkish land for thousands of years, however these two visits made this history feel very real. 

I absolutely loved the Basilica Cistern; it was so still and peaceful. This huge structure lies hidden beneath the streets of Istanbul, and I would have never guessed it was there. Built by Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the 6th century A.D., the cistern has the capacity to store 100,000 tons of water. Large marble columns connected by arches distribute the weight of the ceiling. A few of these columns are noticeably different, like the one pictured above. This is due to the fact that, when the cistern was being built, the columns were brought from a variety of different buildings. Two of the columns even have large stone Medusa heads carved into their bases. 

We also visited the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul. Here was saw remains such as the sarcophagus of Alexander the Great (325-311 B.C.) and the sarcophagus of another wealthy somebody, which is shown below. These great marble tombs are in pristine condition and glistening white. Thus, it was very interesting for me to learn that there is evidence to suggest that these tombs (and other marble structures) were once quite colorful. Imagining the Parthenon blue and yellow is much different than imagining it white. 

And I've always had a fascination with bones and mummies… so this skeleton from 550 B.C. made the Archaeological Museum an extra special treat. 

Day 4: Walking Tour of Istanbul

Street art in the old neighborhood. 

On our walking tour of the city of Istanbul, our amazing guide, Burcu, took us everywhere. We walked from Taksim square down the long street of the main shopping area, to the older part of the neighborhood where we visited the Museum of Innocence, and finally across the Golden Horn to climb the Galata Tower. 

Somewhere between the square and the museum (I got a bit lost) we walked through a beautiful old arcade. I was so busy looking at the cute little shops on my right and the left that I almost didn't look up. Luckily I did, just in time to see the sky through the dome before we walked out. Something about that building was so elegant. I wish I could have stayed there for a coffee. 

Dome of an old arcade. 

When we came out of the arcade we were greeted by this scene (below). Two large Turkish flags and a stencil of Atatürk - the two greatest symbols of Turkish pride and nationalism. I think I should take this opportunity to say that, no matter where you are in Turkey, A Turkish flag is always within sight, and if you look a bit harder, you will most likely be able to find a portrait or photo of Atatürk as well. Atatürk (father of the Turks) is Turkey's most important, famous, and respected political figure. He was their first president and is give credit for founding the Republic of Turkey in 1923, due to his success in the Turkish War of Independence. 

View from Galata Tower.

When we finally made it up to the top of the Galata Tower, this is what we saw (above). We were able to see all the parts of the city we had been to earlier in the day. It was definitely worth the hike.

Day 3: Cruise to Heybeliada Prince's Island

 

It was an absolutely gorgeous day to be out in the water. The sun was sparkling on the sea, it wasn't too windy, and everyone was excited to be going to spend the morning on one of Istanbul's Prince's islands. It took about an hour to get there, and as we approached, we began to see the colorful summer homes nestled along the shore. The island itself is only about two square miles, so there really are very few year-round inhabitants. Most of the homes are just for vacation purposes because unless you own a small restaurant or convenience store (which are often one in the same) there is really not much to do and hardly anywhere to work. Moreover, there are no vehicles allowed on the island, which presents another obstacle to living there. For us, however, it made for a very nice and quiet place to spend the day, away from all the commotion of the city. We also got to ride in beautiful old horse-drawn carriages, which is always a bonus.

We took the carriages up to an Orthodox church that had a beautiful view of the sea. The church was very small, but they are making efforts to start a school there. It is very important to them and they already have architectural plans drawn for a library and dormitory. However, the demand for such a school is not very high, considering that less than one percent of the Turkish population practices a religion other than Islam.

The final perk of the day was making friends with the captain and riding back to Istanbul in his cabin. 

Day 2: The Grand Bazaar

One of the gated entrances to the Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is almost too grand for words to describe, but I will make my best attempt. 

First, there are the people and the crowd is like a river - once you're in it, you pretty much go wherever it takes you. As it turns out, this isn't the best when the inside of the bazaar more closely resembles an ant farm than a market. Once inside, the sights, scents and sounds bombard you all at once. Brightly colored lamps and rugs hang from every wall in every pattern imaginable. The sent of teas, spices, baklava, lokum (Turkish delights) and human sweat combine to form a uniquely Turkish perfume. And on top of all that, the voices of hundreds of men selling their wares and haggling with customers in multiple languages creates that distinctive market buzz.   

When we eventually made our way out, my heart was racing. 

Turkish apple tea

Amongst all the excitement I somehow managed to do a little shopping. But I have to say that my favorite part about the whole thing is the Turkish custom of serving tea to guests. Almost as soon as I sat down to try on a pair of shoes, a warm cup of apple tea was in my hand. In that moment it was easy to almost forgot that I was in a busy market and not a guest in someone's home. Neadless to say, I bought the shoes (below) and I am very pleased with them. I even did a little haggling and got the price down to 50 lira from 90. All in all, the Grand Bazaar was a success. 

Ottoman Silk shoes

  

Day 1: Palaces & Mosques

Topkapi Palace

Hand-painted tiles

The theme of travel was "the old and the new", and my first day in Istanbul, I already had a sense of just how fitting that theme was. As I stood on the terrace of Topkapi palace looking out across the Bosporus, I could see the skyline dotted with the domes and spires of mosques built centuries ago mixed in with the skyscrapers of modern day. And I was amazed by how seamlessly integrated religion was with society, in this visual sense, but also in a practical sense. Muslim or not, five times a day the whole city hears the call to prayer over loudspeakers that echo down every street. And five times a day, many people stop everything in order to participate. As strange as it was, it somehow felt natural that, in this land of juxtapositions, these things should come together. 

Sultan Ahmed (Blue Mosque)

Hagia Sophia